*GEMMOLOGY

*Or Gemology for our American Friends

As usual, I’ll start by clearing up some spelling and terminology variation. In Australia and the UK, Gemmology has to ‘m’s – gemmology, gemmologist. In the US, this is often spelt with one m – gemology, gemologist. Other countries follow either one spelling or the other, and usually the US spelling. I am Australian, so I’ll be using gemmology.

I’ve just finished my Diploma of Gemmology, and one of those most frequent questions I get is ‘huh?’. Gemmology is one of those disciplines that is industry focused, and not in the public eye per-say.

However, I’ve found that even within those involved in the jewellery industry, there are some misconceptions about what gemmology is, what it involves and what you can do as a gemmologist.

I’ll be writing from the perspective of a gemmologist trained by the GAA (Gemmological Association of Australia). Training varies depending on course and association.

Gemmology – what is it?

Gemmology is the study of gemstones. It’s a field that draws heavily from geology and mineralogy, but focuses on what is used in the jewellery trade as gemstones. This means that it can extend into biology, where pearls, ivory or jet is concerned.

Gemmology focuses in intense detail on these particular stones and their physical and optical properties. This includes their chemistry, their geology, formation, mineralogy, optical (light related) properties and physical properties. It also includes trade related information such as location, mining techniques, cutting, applicability for jewellery and some history.

This does not include spiritual or metaphyscial properties. Gemmologists may study or learn information relating to this in their personal study, but gemmology as a discipline is focused on the science of gemstones. History, spirituality, healing or magical properties are up to the individual.

Gemmology is also not concerned with evaluating value or worth. It focuses on the physical and optical properties of the stone concerned. As a trade related discipline, it does acknowledge value – after all, what is considered a gemstone is directly related to it’s worth and value. However, gemmologists do not typically make value judgements within their purview as gemmologists.

What does it involve?

Gemmology involves using this knowledge gained studying gemstones to test the properties of gemstones and identify or study them.

A gemmologist learns how to test gemstones and use the results of these tests to make conclusions about the identity of a specimen. It also may involve testing specimens to get a greater understanding of the gemstone or mineral group as a whole.

Some of the standard tests for gemstones include testing its RI (Refractive Index); SG (Specific Gravity); Optic Sign and Character; Spectrum; Inclusions; Treatments; Luminescence.

What do you do with it?

A gemmologist is primarily trained to identify gemstones.

By using their knowledge of the stones characteristics, a gemmologist with the right equipment and training is able to identify a gemstone specimen.

The people who work in gemstone laboratories that issue certifications, such as GIA in America of GSL in Australia, will be trained as gemmologists.

As a member of a Gemmological Association, a Gemmologist may identify and produce a certification of a stones identity – however, this often requires other certifications and registrations depending on Association and country.

A certification is not a valuation – it is simply an identification of the stone and the listing of it’s characteristics.

People who determine value, cost or worth are referred to in the industry as Valuers. There are different bodies who train and register valuers, although it is standard for a qualified valuer to have a diploma of gemmology.

Why?

Personally, I studied gemmology because I love rocks. I have always had an interest in geology, and I have a passion for jewellery. It made sense from an interest perspective.

I find gemstones fascinating, their physical and optical properties, the science behind why they have those properties, and their enduring popularity. The jewellery industry is focused on beauty and value – gemmology to me provides an essential understanding to why – why they are beautiful, why they are valuable and why people are so fascinated by them.

I’ll write more on value in the future – what it means, how people determine it and what the implications are. But, in short, value is what an individual makes of something. There is nothing inherent in gemstones that makes them valuable, and nothing that makes them more or less worthwhile other than the value we place on it.

This is what fascinates me about gemmology as well – when I’m a gemmologist, there is no difference in value between diamond, amethyst, emerald and glass. All of them are fascinating materials in their own way, and all have unique properties that are different to each other.

Now you know a little bit more about gemmology, and gemmologists.

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